What Supplies do I need?

  • Something to electroform. This will be called the “cathode”. I suggest you electroform something simple and inorganic first, like a plastic animal from the party store. Or a pretty rock (not a valuable gemstone).

  • Source of copper, to be called the “anode” (sometimes called the “sacrificial anode” because it gets used up in this process), and is connected to the Red, or Positive wire. This can be sheet copper, heavy gauge copper wire (coiled to the inside diameter of your container), thin-walled copper tubing, or even copper plumbing pipe, as long as it is 100% pure copper. If using wire, recommend no heavier than about 6 gauge as it is hard to work with unless annealed (softened) with a torch first. I have gotten mine from Lowe’s, in the electrical department on the big spools that they cut to length. There is also a contractor’s package of 25’ of 6 gauge wire for $16. There is no need to shell out a lot of money for copper sheet unless for some reason you have some you want to use up.

  • Container to electroform in. Can be glass or plastic, but must be absolutely clean (wash it with distilled water and dry thoroughly). Helps if it has a pour spout to facilitate emptying occasionally. Round works well for individual items, and rectangular is good for multiples. 

  • Copper conductive solution. This is also sometimes referred to as the electroforming “bath”. This is the blue liquid that conducts the electricity from the source copper to your piece. It is highly corrosive, and contains sulfuric acid and copper sulfate, among other things. I use the Midas Bright Copper Electroforming Solution from Rio Grande, and it runs about $19.00/quart, plus hazardous shipping fees. You can also find this on eBay (search for “copper conductive solution”). This gets “used up” and you will need to periodically replace it. I recommend purchasing solution when you are just starting out with this, and as you become more skilled you can explore making your own. The Resources sheet has a link to a website telling how to make your own solution from copper sulfate crystals and sulfuric acid. I don’t recommend this for beginners.

  • Rectifier. Also called a DC power supply. Allows you to deliver a small, controlled amount of current to the electroforming bath. Has Positive (Red) and Negative (Black) leads with alligator clips on the ends. I use a 3 amp constant current rectifier from Caswell, and it runs about $142. Less expensive options are available.

  • About 12” of heavy gauge copper wire for the bead bridge (10 -12 gauge works well for this, or smaller gauge if your container is small)) that will suspend your work in the solution. You’ll also need some copper wire (24 gauge) to suspend your piece in the solution. Wire from the hardware store in the bubble pack works fine.

  • Copper conductive paint. This gets applied to your item to be electroformed so that the copper from the anode will be attracted to it. It is expensive, about $40 for 4 oz. Options are a lacquer-based paint from Caswell, water based from Safer Solutions, or a graphite based paint. Obviously you will need a small paintbrush too.

  • Sealer. Organic materials must be sealed first, as they will be soaking in a very toxic solution for up to a couple of days. I like the spray version of Mod Podge® (a decoupage sealer sold at Michael’s craft store), but the fumes are toxic so it’s best used outdoors. Other options are varathane or nail polish.

  • Container of distilled water. This is used to rinse your item off when you are removing it from the solution to check on it periodically.

  • Brass brush. A brass bristle brush is handy to shine up the item when it is finished electroforming, or you can use your metalsmithing rotary tool (e.g. a FlexShaft). A jewelry tumbler using stainless steel shot, water, and a tiny bit of dish soap also works well for this, and work hardens the copper to make it stronger.